LETTER FROM THE KITCHEN
I have given away my canning supplies. Twice. Both times, I bought the same equipment and the same jars again.
My reasons for the purge were the usual ones: time and space. I have not invented more of either since. But I have come around to this: whatever hassle I’m trying to avoid in August, I’m always glad I didn’t avoid it in January.
There’s real science in preserving food, and real right and wrong. There’s also plenty of credible information on how to do it properly. The University of Minnesota Extension and Ball — as in the jars — are two of my favorite resources.
Stephanie Thurow → She’s a fellow Minnesotan; she’s written several books on canning and fermenting, and if you want someone who actually does this every single season, she’s it.
This year I’m freezing corn and herbs, canning tomatoes, and making sure I never buy pesto all winter long.
LAST WEEK, YOU ANSWERED
Last week’s question:
What are you preserving this year — and what did you give up on?
A few of you can every year without fail. Several more of you said you used to and miss it. And a number of you are simply afraid of it — botulism, specifically.
So let’s talk about the freezer. Tomatoes lose some texture when frozen compared to canned. If they’re going into a soup, that loss doesn’t matter at all. In a sauce — it will affect the thickness. The prep is easier, you don’t need special equipment, and the risk is significantly lower. Corn and herbs freeze beautifully. Pesto freezes perfectly. Canning is worth learning. But the freezer is a great place to start — and possibly stay.
Here’s a fun fact: Fermentation is safer than canning. That seems impossible since you leave food out on your countertop to grow bacteria, but it’s true.
Fermented Peach and Tomato Salsa →
THE PODCAST
Episode 10 goes up next week. It’s a quiet release. It’s a short essay on stretching the season, when there’s so much food to be had.
Coming up:
August 28 — From Field to Family Table; A Conversation with Dave Nathe of Riverside Farms
WHAT’S HAPPENING IN THE KITCHEN
For the next week, I’m all about pizza.
Sunday at 7 AM, I’ll be on KARE 11 making what I call Farmers Market Neapolitan Pizza.
The segment promotes my pizza classes at the Minneapolis Farmers Market on Saturday, August 29 — two sessions, 9 and 11 AM.
The dough is my long-fermentation dough with 00 flour from Italy. The toppings are all market ingredients. You make your own pizza; we build the toppings as a group, and we fire them in an 850-degree Ooni Volt. It’s fun to make and fun to watch, so come by either way.
Tickets go on sale on Eventbrite Sunday morning, timed to the segment. There are two classes, and they aren’t large. Reply to this email, and I’ll send you the link the moment it’s live. Otherwise, watch Instagram on Sunday morning.
THE SKILL: THE NEW BASICS
Seize the day — make pesto.
THE QUICK WIN
I make an afternoon of it. Six full batches divided into one-cup containers usually get me through the winter.
THE MOST COMMON MISTAKE
Waiting until the basil is waning. When herbs go, they go fast.
ONE TOOL WORTH HAVING
A good garlic press. Mine is a DreamFarm Garject. It presses skin-on cloves and ejects the skins, which saves an enormous amount of time and fuss — and when you’re doing multiple batches of pesto in an afternoon, that adds up.
RECIPE SPOTLIGHT
Fermented Sambal Oelek
MM Green
THE SOUL
Smoky heat. It starts subtle and builds. It never gets uncomfortably hot — it just keeps growing slowly.
Fermentation is the reason. Fresh chiles are sharp on a single note. Four weeks in a jar, and the sharpness changes: rounder and tangier. The heat comes on slowly, not all at once. I use this on everything, but mostly on eggs in the morning.
THE BRIDGE
Thai chilies are abundant in the markets here thanks to the Asian communities. Shop around for the freshest, and look at their dried peppers while you’re at it — this recipe calls for dried cayenne peppers too.
THE MEDITERRANEAN EDIT
Two things I only use in August
TOOL — 3 Quart Stoneware Onggi Jar with Fermentation Weights
Good for larger batches. The crock includes weights and is as functional as it is beautiful. I don’t mind leaving it on the counter for weeks.
TOOL — Simple-Script Jar and Canning Labels
Since you’re doing all the work, make it personal. I’ve ordered from Paper & Pear several time, and I’ve always been happy with the product and their service.
COOKBOOK CHRONICLES
We spent the week on time-lapse and slow-motion photography. I can’t show it to you here — but watch for it on social.
We had so much melon that I made three kinds of melon soup, plus a platter with hot honey and lime on the side. A blueberry galette with fresh berries I promised. And I finalized the Lemony Tuscan White Bean and Kale Soup for the launch on September 16th.
What an amazing year for melons!
BEFORE YOU GO
Until next Thursday — keep a good olive oil on the counter and don’t be afraid to use it.
—Chef Laura