LETTER FROM THE KITCHEN
The transition from peak-summer farmers market bounty to fall food has always been a tough one for me. It’s a natural shift as the tomatoes wane and the sweet corn, fresh melon, and berries disappear, and the winter squash and apples come in.
But as the weather cools down, meals seem to become heavier as my attention turns from grilled fish to pot roast and potatoes. Comfort foods, to me, have always seemed designed to give you an extra layer of fat for the winter, which is also a fact. It’s normal to crave heavier foods as the temperatures drop.
My solution to this dilemma is what I call my “anchor soups”. Over the years, I’ve written a number of them. I always have one on hand, especially during the colder months. They have no added fat, sugar, or simple carbs and are packed with highly nutritious and delicious ingredients.
This is what I’ll talk about on the 16th. One pot of soup finished two completely different ways, and how the choices you make decide whether fall food gets heavy or not.
JOIN ME AT THE TABLE
One Soup, Two Ways
I will make one of my favorite recipes — Lemony Tuscan White Bean and Kale Soup.
I’ll email the recipe out before the class; cook along if you like.
Here’s the twist: from the same pot, we’re going to create two different bowls. One finished with Basil Pesto and a drizzle of olive oil, it becomes MM Blue — the classic tier of the Mindful Mediterranean program. Topped with Basil Cauliflower Pesto, it becomes MM Green — the plant-forward tier.
Same technique. Same base. Two paths. We’ll discuss the difference.
If you’re curious about the program, already on the waitlist, or just love soup — I’d love to have you. This is a free class; cook with me.
LAST WEEK YOU ANSWERED
LAST WEEK’S POLL: What do you reach for when you’re cooking eggs?
50%: cast iron, 25%: stainless steel, 25%: non-stick
I was happy to see that cast iron was the clear winner and surprised to see that no one uses carbon steel. See the skill section to learn how to make any pan non-stick. I’ve been using my father’s cast iron pans for years. I use them for everything from Spanish Omelets to searing salmon.
Here are recipes to fill out your Labor Day grilling…
MEDITERRANEAN CORN AND TOMATO SALAD →
MEDITERRANEAN STUFFED EGGPLANT →
THE PODCAST
From Field to Family Table: A Conversation with Dave Nathe of Riverside Farms.
Dave’s daughter Ashley joins us for part of the conversation. She’s a delight, and they’re a compelling father-daughter combination.
Mark shot drone footage, which makes this worth watching rather than listening — you’ll find it on my YouTube channel Friday morning.
Coming up on September 11: The Hardest Week in Healthy Eating Isn’t In January
WHAT’S HAPPENING IN THE KITCHEN
Last weekend’s pizza class was a sold-out success. One of the attendees, a wedding photographer who makes social media videos on the side, documented the class beautifully — that's her work above. Brenna → I don’t know how she had time to make pizza — what a gift!
In other internet news, this podcast short got over 200,000 views on Instagram, 85,000 on YouTube, and 75,000 views on Facebook. Who knew that people were so interested in the price of corn seed?
THE SKILL: THE NEW BASICS
Making any pan non-stick
THE QUICK WIN
Let’s face it, the non-stick pans that emit chemicals worked very well, but of course, we all got rid of them. There are new brands now that are chemical-free. And the good news is you don’t necessarily need a coated non-stick surface to keep food from sticking. The trick is properly heating your pan before you add fat. Heat your pan over medium heat for a few minutes. Then drop in a few drops of water. If the drop dances around the pan, add your fat. If it sizzles away, keep heating.
When the water gathers into a bead that glides around the pan, that’s called the Leidenfrost effect or mercury ball test. Wipe away the water, add your fat or oil, let it heat until it shimmers, then add your food.
If you’re cooking scrambled eggs or a frittata, cover the pan when finished for 3 to 5 minutes — letting the steam help to release the food from the bottom and sides of the pan.
THE MOST COMMON MISTAKE
Not giving your pan enough time to heat up. People seem to get nervous about a pan sitting on heat without something in it. It’s designed for heat.
ONE TOOL WORTH HAVING
RECIPE SPOTLIGHT
Tarragon Walnut Potato Salad
MM-Blue
THE SOUL
This recipe is based on a German-style potato salad using a vinaigrette instead of mayonnaise. The tarragon gives a distinctive flavor that complements the mustard-based dressing.
THE BRIDGE
It’s fun to try a new take on a traditional favorite.
THE MEDITERRANEAN EDIT
Here are some pans that I wouldn’t cook without.
Lodge Chef Seasoned Cast Iron Skillet, Set of 2
de Buyer Mineral B Carbon Steel Fry Pans
BEFORE YOU GO
Next week: What to do with the last of the season’s bounty.
Know someone who’d like this? Forward it. Three friends who subscribe, and I’ll send you three MM Green soup recipes.
Until next Thursday — keep a good olive oil on the counter and don’t be afraid to use it.
— Chef Laura